Patsy Thompson Designs, Ltd.

Trapunto + Ruler Work Quilting = Incredible Texture

March 31st, 2017

You can trapunto ruler work quilting just as you can trapunto any quilting or applique, so I used trapunto to highlight the various “zones” within my recent ruler work feathered wreath. You can see in the shot above that this allowed me to dramatize the wreath as a whole, but it also allows me to have the viewer appreciate the multitude of “design zones” that comprise the wreath. This is pretty easy to do and I’ll outline my steps below. By laying it out in this way, I’m hoping you will see the power of trapunto evolve literally before your eyes.

Step #1: Pin a piece of scrap batting behind your block, then quilt whatever design you want to trapunto. In my case, I pinned a piece of scrap Hobbs Tuscany Silk/Cotton Blend batting, mainly because I have a ton of this stuff and I’m trying to use it up. I quilted my ruler work frame work (as described in the last post), then did all my fill-in FMQing and hyperquilting. Once done, I trimmed away all the excess batting that felloutside the ruler work design. Here is what the back of my project looked like at this point:

I wanted to crank things up another notch, so I added a second layer of extra batting underneath the center circle, aka everything except the outermost plumes. I used the thinnest loft of Quilters Dream Polyester batting for this additional zone, and here’s what the back side looked like at this point:

(That extra circle of batting was easily added by a few strokes of a glue stick.)

Step 2: I basted the 3 layers of my quilt sandwich together, and here’s how that purple center block appeared before I started quilting. You can see that there’s a little fullness behind the center circle, but that’s about it. You can’t even tell there’s a trapunto layer behind those outer plumes:

Step 3: I put invisible thread in my top needle and outlined all the various “zones” of the wreath, then outlined each plume. Know that I did not enter any plume or zone that had been hyperquilted, and this is important as it would have flattened those plumes or zones. I outlined the outermost plumes with 3 rows of echo quilting and did some dense stippling in the dead center of the wreath. This adds more relief to the design and accentuates the trapunto. The shot below is what the center block looked like at this point. All that puckering around the edge shows you how much contraction the trapunto and dense quilting causes:

Hopefully, your heart is starting to race a bit now! I am usually starting to get excited at this stage because there is so much texture, but also having a bit of internal panic about all the puckering from contraction. Because the center block did not leave me much room outside the wreath, there was a limit as to what I could do to frame the wreath. This, coupled with the fact that there was so much thread detail in the wreath and I wanted it to be the “star of the show,” led me to frame the wreath in more subtle ways. I began by using my Quilted Pineapple arc ruler to create some arc channels in the 4 corners. Here’s what it looked like before any fill in work had occurred:

In these next shots, all the fill in work has happened. I added some “Aztec featherettes” in the 4 corners and used the igloos design for my background fill around the wreath. Adding all that dense quilting surrounding the wreath again accentuates the trapunto:

and more:

I’ll post more once my outer border has been quilted… It might be awhile.

Filed under Free Motion Quilting, ruler work on a HDSM, Trapunto. 2 Comments

How to Create the Large Purple Ruler Work Wreath

March 26th, 2017

I heard from several people who wanted to know how I made this ruler work feathered wreath, so the tutorial that follows outlines the steps. When I set out to do something like this, I don’t have the full thing composed in my head, so I’m making up the wreath as I go. Sometimes I learn difficult lessons by working like this and other times the universe is smiling on me and everything works out great. The difficult lesson I learned on this one was that I should have started with a much larger fabric block! I started with a 20 in square block but wish I’d started with a 24-26 in square block. If you make this wreath, start larger and you can always trim it if you don’t want to do something with the surrounding zone.

Step 1: I used the PTD flower templates to create the center. I used all 3 templates, set in concentric flower format. You can see a short video of me doing that on my previous post by clicking here.

Step 2: At the end of step 1, here’s what I had:

I knew I was making a feathered wreath that would be large and I wanted to have plumes on the inner portion as well as the outer portion. I also knew going in that my wreath would be large so I was “pushing it” as far as proportions go in having tiny plumes in the center and large plumes on the outside. This meant I needed to preserve the largest size of “inside circle” as possible, and when I say “inside circle,” I am referring to the circle from which the inside plumes would flow. I measured the maximal diameter from inside flower cleavage to the inside flower cleavage on the opposite side and it fell between 3 1/2 in-4 inches. This meant I would “waste” some space if I used my templates to draw a 3 1/2 in circle, so I instead used my Quilter’s Groove Pro Echo 4 arc ruler to stitch short arcs from each inside cleavage point to the next cleavage point. By working this way instead of using some form of a circle template, I could create the largest circle possible within that space. (I realize this might be confusing, but this is an important tip if you’re trying to use your rulers to “customize” a given design, so I’m putting it out there.) Here is what the wreath looked like at the end of this step:

Step 3: Next up, I wanted to stitch the remaining circles that would be in this wreath. By working in this way, I am establishing the boundaries of the “negative space” within the wreath that I would be able to play in for the fill-in work. I used my Westalee Circles on Quilts Template set and stitched the 10 1/2 and 11 1/2 in circles. How did I choose those sizes of circles? I was “locked into” a maximal wreath size because of what I had chosen as my starting fabric block size, so I worked backwards. I figured that after allowing for enough space to throw plumes around the outside circle, that fabric block could not tolerate a large circle more than 11 1/2 inches, so that was my maximal circle size. I also knew I wanted to throw a ring of pearls around the outermost border of the circle, so I knew I needed a 10 1/2 inner circle as this would give me a 1/2 in diameter channel. Here’s what the wreath looked like at this point in the process:

Step 4: This is the beginning of creating fill-in designs in that “negative space” area. I changed thread colors and used my PTD 8 arc ruler to create small inward curving arcs all along the outermost flower petals. There are markings etched on the flower petals that delineate the middle of each petal, so that’s where those small tick marks shown below came from. The original soap lines that I drew on the fabric block are the other intersections that I used as my starting and stopping points to do this ruler work. If this is confusing, check out the in-process photo below:

I used the same PTD ruler to add a tapered channel to my diamonds, then added small featherettes inside the smallest flower petals and also added the innermost plumes, and here is what it looked like at the end of this section:

Before we move on to the next section, a couple of things:

1. Anytime I am filling a space with a featherette, I start by stitching that center-most plume, then I keep reflecting off what has been stitched to fill each side. I usually have a soap line that runs down the center of the space to help me keep things centered.

2. I know of 2 ways to create the plumes on a feathered wreath. You can take a stencil that flows from roughly the same size circle and trace the plumes to follow, or you can stitch the plumes freehand. I will show you how to stitch the plumes freehand when we do the outermost plumes in step 8. I took the easy way out on the inner plumes and traced them from a stencil.

Step 5: I swapped thread colors again, then I added Aztec featherettes inside the small diamonds. Here’s how the wreath looked at the end of this step:

Step 6: I swapped thread colors again and added featherettes into the largest size petal areas. Notice that each time I have filled a zone with featherettes, I have changed some or all of the plume shapes that comprise the featherettes. This is deliberate as it will make the wreath more interesting. Here is what the wreath looked like at this stage:

Step 7: I swapped thread colors again and filled the remaining negative space that bordered the external circles with the figur-of-8’s fill design. This design always works well if you need to fill a dynamic space, or one whose height is changing. The only trick to it is that you want to keep the design perpendicular to the base of the space you are filling. Here’s what the wreath looked like at this point:

Step8: I wanted to add the plumes to my wreath before I went any farther in the inside. Here is how I add freehand plumes to a feathered wreath:

-using soap or other temporary marker, draw a temporary circle around your outermost circle that will be your “boundary line,” or the target for the outermost plunge of each plume. If you deliberately stretch each plume to hit that boundary line, your plume size will be symmetric across the wreath. I used my compass to make this and literally spread its span to the widest diameter possible.

-To stitch your plumes, you will begin with a “hook,” then add each plume using the bump-back feather technique. By using that specific technique, your plume shapes have the best chance of being as uniform as possible. This next shot is early in the process of adding my plumes to that outer-most circle. If you look to the far right, you can see my beginning “hook shape,” and if you look along the outer edge of the plumes, you can see my soap line circle that I’m using for my boundary mark:

For me, this next part of the process is the most gut-wrenching! I keep adding my plumes until I have enough space left for the last 4-5 plumes. I then remove the quilt from the machine and lay it out to look at what space is left. I go ahead and draw the remaining plumes, taking care that the final plume will have a reasonable “meet up” with the original hook. I don’t have to follow my drawing exactly as I stitch, but it gives me an assurance that things will all work out in the end. Here’s a shot of what this looked like before i took it back to the machine for the final plumes:

This next shot is what the wreath looks like once all plumes have been added. I want you to look carefully at the plumes so you will see that they are not all uniform. They really aren’t, but they are close enough that the wreath registers as “believable” and the wreath is beautiful. I’m telling you this because we are all way too tough on ourselves as quilting critics and we need to get over it!!!

Step 9: I swapped to a gold polyester thread and hyperquilted those Aztec featherettes, then used the same thread to quilt a row of pearls inside the outermost circle. Here’s what it looked like at this point:

Final step 10: I hyperquilted the outermost plumes with the same gold thread, using a compound hyperquilting design that merged a swirl with splay lines. The innermost plumes were hyperquilted with simple in-lining. And here is the end result:

…and a closeup:

This was a very fun way spend a day and I’m glad I did it! This was actually stitched as a trapunto layer, so it’s not done. I will hopefully be able to return to it soon and whenever that happens, I’ll post with some in process photos again. In the meantime, if you are wanting to learn more about featherettes and feathers, check out my Craftsy class called Ultimate Free Motion Feathers!

Filed under Craftsy!, Free Motion Quilting, ruler work on a HDSM, Trapunto. 4 Comments

Yin and Yang in My Sewing Room

March 20th, 2017

Do you know what this is?

It’s a feathered wreath whose largest spine zone is the opposite of the ruler work framework that I quilted in the feathered wreath I made last week, shown below:

I used the same stop/start markings to create the ruler work framework of the spine zone, but I inverted the arc ruler on the 2nd wreath so that it was convex instead of concave. This alters the shape of the arches created in that spine zone, which necessarily alters the featherettes that are used to fill those arches. My original plan was to stick with “Aztec-style” featherettes, but then I decided it was better to have more examples of different featherettes, so I opted for the more traditional plume shapes:

Photos don’t show things as well as in real life, but these wreaths are also very different from a textural standpoint. The blue wreath has a trapunto layer, so it has a lot more depth to it. Here is a shot of it after the wreath had been stitched and I was just about to start outlining areas with invisible thread. The thread work is pretty but the wreath is quite flat:

In this next shot, the inner plumes have been outlined and the first “skinny” spine zone has been outlined, and you can just barely begin to see some texture:

…and in this next one, I’ve outlined everything but haven’t done any echo quilting up against the wreath yet:

If you compare that to this one, you can really tell that something “extra” is going on:

And here they are next to one another:

I love all things free motion quilting!

Filed under Free Motion Quilting, ruler work on a HDSM, Trapunto. 1 Comment

Trapuntoed Ruler Work-Part 2B

March 4th, 2017

We covered the first steps in creating the trapuntoed ruler work block above in an earlier post; you can find that post by clicking here. This left us at this step:

I used the same PTD 12 arc ruler to add 8 arcs along the outside edge, then I added a 1/4 inch channel, a 1/2 inch chaneel, and another 1/4 inch channel. My goal in doing this is to have one channel I can fill (the 1/2 in wide channel), and an inner and outer channel to set that filled channel “off,” or make it more interesting and intricate with very little work. Here’s what that looked like before I had filled the middle channel:

…and here’s what it looked like once that 1/2 inch wide channel had been filled with a row of pearls. Notice that the row of pearls really creates a visual ring around the mandala:

This next move is kind of subtle. I used a bluish-purple trilobal polyester thread to fill the long inner “triangles” with featherettes. This was a subtle way of adding a new color to the design:

I then swapped to a different thread color (light aqua), and added a different featherette design to the outer triangle shapes:

I went to hyperquilt it but was timid at first and only hyperquilted every other featherette in the outermost triangles:

And remember, the whole point of this “experiment” is that all these blocks will eventually be pieced into a quilt where all the ruler work will be trapuntoed, so I flipped this block over and trimmed away all the excess batting that fell outside the design, so here is what it looked like at the very end:

This final shot below will give you a bit of a sense of the effect of trapunto. This next shot shows the block after the quilt has been pieced and I’ve outlined “zones” of this mandala with invisible thread. You can really appreciate the effects of the trapunto and I haven’t even quilted anything in the area surrounding the mandala yet:

Stay tuned!

Filed under Free Motion Quilting, ruler work on a HDSM, Trapunto. 1 Comment

Trapuntoed Ruler Work-Part 2A

February 21st, 2017

This is the 2nd block in my trapuntoed ruler work quilt; you can read about creating the first trapuntoed ruler work block by clicking here. This block began just like before, by subdividing it with 8 soaplines that intersect in the center of the block. I then used the largest template in the PTD Flower Template set to create my center-most shape:

Next, I left my pin in the center of the block but swapped the flower template to one of my Westalee Circles on Quilts templates. I choose a circle size that was just a tad bit smaller than the center of the flower template I’d just stitched. The circles on quilts templates are fun and you stitch the circles by “riding” inside the cut-out channels as shown below:

Once my circle was stitched, I swapped to a different Circles on Quilts Template that allowed me to stitch a circle that was just 1/2 inch smaller in diameter. This allowed me to create a narrow channel and adding a channel always makes a design look more interesting:

Notice that my center pin is still in place. That was deliberate as I thought I’d probably stitch another circle. I swapped to a different color thread, then stitched a much smaller circle. I swapped thread colors again, and used 2 different arc rulers to form a small curved “square” on point with tapering channels in the smallest circle:

Finally time for a bit of “fill-in” work! I added a small featherette inside the square on point, then used my soap lines to guide me in stitching 4 featherettes inside the large “spine zone:”

Next, I hyperquilted the lavendar featherettes with gold polyester thread and added small featherettes inside the flower petals. (Sorry, the colors on this next photo are totally off!)

Before I go any further, doesn’t it strike you that the flower shape we began with really doesn’t seem much like a flower anymore? I made tick marks on the center of each flower petal (they’re on the template), then used an arc ruler to add curved triangles that spring from the flower edge. It was easy to create a tapering channel around the triangles y marking a temporay tick mark 3/4″ further out than the point of each triangle:

This design is far from complete but there are so many steps that it’s too much for one post! See you soon with Part 2B details that will explain how to take the design above to the design below:

Filed under Free Motion Quilting, ruler work on a HDSM, Trapunto. 5 Comments

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